“…a testament to the power of partnerships across continents and throughout the jewelry industry supply chain, working towards a more equitable and sustainable jewelry landscape.”
By: Susan Wheeler, Founder: Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference; Board Member: Jewelry Industry Summit
On 12 July, 2019, Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference (CRJC) founder Susan Wheeler was invited to host the second day of the KENYA GEM & JEWELLERY FAIR in partnership with the Association of Women in Extractives Kenya (AWEIK). The Fair is an annual meeting of jewelry workers from around the world that takes place in Nairobi, Kenya, and it connects industry players from across the supply chain to discuss ways to create a more sustainable and equitable jewelry landscape.
Wheeler presented the day’s keynote speech, “The Journey of The Gem,” on behalf of Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gem House. The speech described how gemstone buyers increasingly reward positive mine-to-market stories that emphasize transparency and strong partnerships throughout the gem’s journey from the earth to the jewelry case.
Equitable supply chains consist of “people and events working together for the good of all involved to create the ultimate satisfaction for the final consumer,” the speech said.
Wheeler invited several sustainable jewelry organizations to present throughout the day. A presentation by Moyo Gems highlighted the power of partnerships in equitable supply chain management. Speakers included Cristina Villegas and Norbert Massay of PACT Worldwide, Robert Weldon of Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Monica Stephenson of ANZA Gem, and Eunice Negele and Salma Kundi Ernest of The Tanzanian Women’s Mining Association (TAWOMA), who discussed how Moyo’s work improved the livelihoods of women miners. GIA partnered with PACT to teach TAWOMA members gemstone identification and valuation, which helped women miners earn three to five times more value for their gems. ANZA then helped bring the gemstones to the US, and now, Moyo gems are sold across the nation.
Ernest said Moyo “has given hope to women miners in getting equipment for mining, and direct selling from producer to consumer brings fairness to the women miners and [uplifts] our community.”
After presenting with Moyo Gems, Weldon held a gem identification and valuation workshop for a packed room of miners from across Africa. GIA provided gem identification booklets designed to be straightforward and able to withstand the elements experienced in mines.
The Women in the Jewelry Industry Panel featured women miners from the US, Zambia, and Cameroon. All panel members discussed the similar gender-based obstacles encountered in their respective countries and stressed the importance of women supporting each other in business.
The Designer Panel addressed supply chain, fair-trade manufacturing, and perspectives on a variety of consumer markets. It was moderated by Wairimu Karanja, with participants Wheeler, Wing Yau, Jessica Hudson, and SumerHomeh.
Other speakers included Carrie George of Everledger, who presented “Low Tech and Smart Tech to Bring Credibility to Mining Communities.” Klemens Link of Gubelin Gem Labs presented “The Importance of Providence.” Patricia Mweene of Inonge Zita presented “Design Thinking for Extractive Communities.” Stephenson of ANZA and Yianni Melas of the Gem Explorer spoke in conversation withAlaka Lugonzo, Coordinator for AWEIK.
In Andrea Hill’s closing remarks she emphasized the importance of working across geographies, cultures, and demographics within the supply chain to discuss problems and explore solutions. “When people work together to effect change,” she concluded, “the solutions they invent are relevant to the needs, issues, and cultures where they are to be implemented.”